Entry Level Scope Questions

[driepootx]

Remember that Lynx can service their scopes in Jburg and it is normally free of charge.

[oafpatroll]

Remember that Lynx can service their scopes in Jburg and it is normally free of charge.

I've had quite remarkable service from them.

[MyLani]

I just had a Burris exchanged for a new model free of charge. It took a knock on a hunt. Never had any issues with Burris aftersales service

[DaavG]

Not to talk you out of your scope selecting but a 243 out to 300m is pretty flat shooting. A plex scope zeroed at 200m is going to work just fine - I hunted for years with a 243 using a Weaver K4 zeroed at 200m and it worked great - literally if the animal is really close (100m or less) aim 2 inches low, if it looks like 250-300m, aim 2" high.

I know there are accomplished hunters that dial but I personally don't really get it. Hunting at less than 300m means the animal has a decent chance of seeing you, ergo you may not have 30 seconds to rangefind, work out dope and dial. And then you have Murphy's guarantee that you'll forget to reset/rezero and have a sitter at 80m that you miss high by 30cm. Yes some of the preset systems like the CDS and ballistic turrets simplify this and are quick to use. But IMO dialling is for precision shooting and long range work.

I think the BDC reticles are the best compromise for hunting. I hear the comments about magnification settings (fair point) but if you need to compensate, the animal is pretty far and therefore you're likely to be at max magnification already (and everyone know hunting scopes are 20x or less right ) So the BDC ranges are likely to be just fine at 300m. The plus of BDC is you can also just use the main crosshairs to aim off (compensate) if you need to take a quick shot or you can't remember which hash/cross-hair relates to what distance.

The Lynx SA Hunter works well in my experience - it's simple and if it correlates to your rifle/ammo combo then you're away. I use one on a 6.5x55 shooting 140gr Accubonds at 2800f/s which is zeroed at 200m and the 2 main sub-cross-hairs are dead on at 300m and 400m. It does help if the rifle is a tack driver.
I also like the Swarovski BRH reticle but that's not really available in the entry level scope class. Punchline - simpler is better for hunting, avoid christmas tree reticles, especially in the entry level bracket.

Learning your trajectory and aiming off with a plex reticle can work fine too - with your 243 you're highly unlikely to be aiming off the 'hair' at 300m.
None of the scopes you've listed, while great value for money, would be classed as anything more than average glass at best - would you be served better choosing superior glass and plex reticle in the same price band? Zeiss and Meopta come to mind.

Thank you, valid points. I have a duplex reticle on my 7x57 and this works out to 200m - past this I'm starting to guess the drop and lobbing the 175gr RN down range - not a feeling a like but its a bushveld calibre.

I am aware of the max magnification, would definitely do some range work to check which magnifications and hash marks correspond with the drop etc.

The glass quality is a concern but its a balance between price and versatility as there is quite a jump price wise to the next level up, quality wise.

I looked through a Lynx SAH reticle in store and my impression was that the reticle was very small (even at max magnification) vs the Leupold tri-moa reticle - am I way off here as I have read good reports on it?

Remember that Lynx can service their scopes in Jburg and it is normally free of charge.

Noted, I have heard / read great reports on their service

I just had a Burris exchanged for a new model free of charge. It took a knock on a hunt. Never had any issues with Burris aftersales service

Noted.

[Desperatezulu]

With respect, a 175gr out of 7x57 is close to the opposite end of the trajectory spectrum to a full power 243. Even then, it's not hard to compensate and hold-over. Basic homework on a ballistic app will give you the drop.

I looked through a Lynx SAH reticle in store and my impression was that the reticle was very small (even at max magnification) vs the Leupold tri-moa reticle - am I way off here as I have read good reports on it?

Not sure what you mean? The gap between the gradations corresponds to the POI shift - xx MOA of drop between hash-marks must be the same at the same magnification for all scopes?
On SFP scopes the reticle does not change with magnification.
If you mean the horizontal crosshairs are shorter on the Lynx, that may be true. There's meant to be some logic/maths behind the length of these on the SAH for windage but I've never bothered to figure it out.
One of the big appeals of the SAH reticle is its uncluttered look.

In practice, you're looking for the following: 1. setting your zero at 200m. 2. which crosshair/hash corresponds to 300m or somewhere close.
Learning all the distances for each gradation is not necessary (or if you feel it is, print out a cheat sheet with them all). A christmas tree reticle just slows you down finding which hash you need. No big deal on the range but a PITA in hunting conditions where time is very limited to take the shot.

[Stef1274]

What is the Hawke Vantage range like? Again not familiar with the brand.

I have one on 6.5 Grendel bolt action. Decided to ignore naysayers on it, and so far it's doing really well. My sample size is small, but holds zero, clear glass, excellent price point. Will see where time takes us, but I don't believe in paying what average prices are for telescopes. Reticle is somewhat coarse, but I can live with that.

Hawke says it is a full size calibre scope, and demo theirs with a 300wm if I remember correctly. But retailers here insist it's an air rifle scope, and refuse to stop arguing. Luckily, Grendel's recoil is almost the same as a pellet, so I guess that should do.

[DaavG]

With respect, a 175gr out of 7x57 is close to the opposite end of the trajectory spectrum to a full power 243. Even then, it's not hard to compensate and hold-over. Basic homework on a ballistic app will give you the drop.

I understand what you're saying, my point, badly made, was that I find the duplex reticle difficult at the 200m+ distances due to having thin post and then thick post only, no has marks to use in between. Lack of practise at longer distances is also an issue.

Not sure what you mean? The gap between the gradations corresponds to the POI shift - xx MOA of drop between hash-marks must be the same at the same magnification for all scopes?
On SFP scopes the reticle does not change with magnification.
If you mean the horizontal crosshairs are shorter on the Lynx, that may be true. There's meant to be some logic/maths behind the length of these on the SAH for windage but I've never bothered to figure it out.
One of the big appeals of the SAH reticle is its uncluttered look.

The actual reticle seemed very small when looking through the scope in store and this made me think it would be difficult to use on the range / in field. Tri-moa has the dots running further down the vertical line and feels like it would be easier. Not sure I am describing this well.

In practice, you're looking for the following: 1. setting your zero at 200m. 2. which crosshair/hash corresponds to 300m or somewhere close.
Learning all the distances for each gradation is not necessary (or if you feel it is, print out a cheat sheet with them all). A christmas tree reticle just slows you down finding which hash you need. No big deal on the range but a PITA in hunting conditions where time is very limited to take the shot.

Thank you.

[Sean KZN]

I understand what you're saying, my point, badly made, was that I find the duplex reticle difficult at the 200m+ distances due to having thin post and then thick post only, no has marks to use in between. Lack of practise at longer distances is also an issue.



The actual reticle seemed very small when looking through the scope in store and this made me think it would be difficult to use on the range / in field. Tri-moa has the dots running further down the vertical line and feels like it would be easier. Not sure I am describing this well.

Thank you.

Dave, I'm not certain but I think the SAH reticle is only on the 50mm scopes, I've always liked it just the 50mm and price point that goes with it put me off.
In 3-9x40 I have a leupold with the BDC or whatever they call that reticle with the MOA dots on it, even though it looks really thin in the shop, at the range it's a different story as it seems much thicker, although perfectly functional.
I've used it both on a .22lr and 308win and it's perfectly functional on either, just use the same bullet and load to keep the marks sensible.

[DaavG]

Dave, I'm not certain but I think the SAH reticle is only on the 50mm scopes, I've always liked it just the 50mm and price point that goes with it put me off.
In 3-9x40 I have a leupold with the BDC or whatever they call that reticle with the MOA dots on it, even though it looks really thin in the shop, at the range it's a different story as it seems much thicker, although perfectly functional.
I've used it both on a .22lr and 308win and it's perfectly functional on either, just use the same bullet and load to keep the marks sensible.

Thanks Sean.