To reload 7.62x39 or just buy?

**pbuitendag** · 20-10-2017, 10:37

Hi all

So I got my license for 7.62x39 recently and am wondering if it's worth it to reload for it or just buy ammo?

If you guys are of the opinion to buy is better, who has the cheapest prices?

Go!

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**zs6hdv** · 20-10-2017, 10:59

Best I've found is Tactical .22 at R5.80. Tac Shac was R6. Bought from both. This was maybe 8 weeks ago.

My maths showed I have to cast (powdercoated) otherwise it is not worth it. Bullets cost me <40c a piece for total cost of <R2 excl brass.

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**BarOne** · 20-10-2017, 11:15

I buy spam cans at Tactical .22 mostly due to my AK dinging the living shyte out of the case side walls. Cost is pretty close when using S321 with cheap PMP .303 (0.311) 150gr points and consistency with the reloads at 100m is awesome.

**Quicksilver_WP** · 21-10-2017, 11:08

Originally Posted by BarOne

I buy spam cans at Tactical .22 mostly due to my AK dinging the living shyte out of the case side walls. Cost is pretty close when using S321 with cheap PMP .303 (0.311) 150gr points and consistency with the reloads at 100m is awesome.

Your calculations of "pretty close" obviously ignore a maximum of 15 cycles out of boxer brass and the subsequent replacement cost. Or are you one of those converting steel berdan primed cases? I buy boxer ammo and brass because I don't have the time for that drama. And frankly don't trust it.By the same token I've also bought and tested Sierra 180gr SPT at R6.75 a bullet and exclusively use S265, so i may not be the person to ask about relative cost

Fitting a knob to your charge handle should reduce the impact damage.The only way to beat milsurp pricing, taking all the costs into account, is using cast PC bullets.

**Mattblom** · 22-10-2017, 07:50

Very informative, thanks. Just to add to the question: does it matter if you reload with .308 or .311? So many opinions...just not sure (it’s for a type 56 AKMS)

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**Quicksilver_WP** · 22-10-2017, 16:54

Matt, technically your Type 56 should be .310 in the grooves and .300 on the lands. So ideally you would use. 311 bullets.I have heard of massive variations in 56s though. One as bad as .314 in the grooves.On the other hand some people have had good results using 143gr FMJ .308 bullets. IIRC that was M43? In theory there should be blowby but with the twist rate, it seems that it may not matter.Personally I haven't gotten around to trying 308 bullets. I'm still testing with .311 bullets, deciding which I prefer and how much cost I'm prepared to stomach on a regular basis. But my goal has always been to run heavy bullets at lower pressures while retaining reliable cycling.I'm actually about to embark on testing a 214gr PC bullet once all the bits and pieces arrive. It might even be subsonic from the stumpy Serbian.Slug your barrel to be sure. I got a few .312 sized Lee 160gr cast bullets from a friend that i used for slugging both of mine.

**Mattblom** · 22-10-2017, 18:25

Originally Posted by Quicksilver_WP

Matt, technically your Type 56 should be .310 in the grooves and .300 on the lands. So ideally you would use. 311 bullets.I have heard of massive variations in 56s though. One as bad as .314 in the grooves.On the other hand some people have had good results using 143gr FMJ .308 bullets. IIRC that was M43? In theory there should be blowby but with the twist rate, it seems that it may not matter.Personally I haven't gotten around to trying 308 bullets. I'm still testing with .311 bullets, deciding which I prefer and how much cost I'm prepared to stomach on a regular basis. But my goal has always been to run heavy bullets at lower pressures while retaining reliable cycling.I'm actually about to embark on testing a 214gr PC bullet once all the bits and pieces arrive. It might even be subsonic from the stumpy Serbian.Slug your barrel to be sure. I got a few .312 sized Lee 160gr cast bullets from a friend that i used for slugging both of mine.

Thank you so much for this valuable info. In your opinion is it wise to slugg the barrel?

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**zs6hdv** · 22-10-2017, 18:29

I hammered a cast bullet through the barrel and it measured .3134". I use unsized powdercoated cast bullets from the Lee 2 cavity 155gr mould, which happens to be just the right size.

One of tye guys at Zimbi suggested that I slug the barrel before purchasing a sizing die kit, which was wise advice, as no sizing is necessary on my T56.

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**Quicksilver_WP** · 22-10-2017, 19:45

Originally Posted by Mattblom

Thank you so much for this valuable info. In your opinion is it wise to slugg the barrel?

In an AK it's probably not critical, but as indicated by zs6hdv, it's better to know either way. Both of mine clocked in on spec at .310 exactly, with the M92 feeling a smidgen tighter on the push through, but still .310.

If you've got a more generously reamed barrel, you may get better results using cast and PC (and perhaps then sized accordingly) bullets. Or it might make no real difference in the end result. Only testing in YOUR rifle will get you those answers.