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Thread: Loctite

  1. #21

    Default Re: Loctite

    Thanks Khumba.
    I'm giving the Loctite a miss and am now taking the choke key with me when I go to the clay range.
    All seems 'good' at the moment.
    Extended chokes are on the shopping list...when funds permit
    Regards.
    Keith.

  2. #22
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    Default Re: Loctite

    Quote Originally Posted by Khumba View Post
    Hailstorm stocks Briley Choke Tube grease.

    If you use a choke Tube wrench to tighten the chokes it should contain the chokes.

    Choke Tube thread is usually a very fine thread and I would not recommend using Loctite for fear of somehow damaging the threads when you decide to undo a choke tube - this may be baseless but I have never seen anyone using Loctite on choke tubes. If you decide to do that use green Loctite and nothing stronger.

    I would also advise to get extended Choke tubes which you can easily check by hand. It also aides in ease of changing tunes.
    Not the best idea to recommend loctite based on colour. The green one (290) I have in my workshop is the wicking type and is stronger than the 'blue' (243) and pretty equal to the 'red' (263). In fact I have often destroyed threads trying to forcefully remove nuts that have had 290 applied.

    Perhaps you meant the purple 222 loctite?

    I also have other green loctite (retaining compound for bearing shafts) which would not work well in threads.

    Here are the probably the three most common loctites, http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/

    And here is the entire range, soooo confusing especially since every bottle looks the same
    http://www.loctite.co.za/loctite/ful...ctite-2903.htm


    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Loctite

    I like the lineup of normal threadlocking compounds:
    222 Low strength.
    243 Medium strength
    270 High strength

    Was just looking for the 308, 338, 375, 416 and 458 grades...

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Loctite

    Quote Originally Posted by atunguyd View Post
    Not the best idea to recommend loctite based on colour. The green one (290) I have in my workshop is the wicking type and is stronger than the 'blue' (243) and pretty equal to the 'red' (263). In fact I have often destroyed threads trying to forcefully remove nuts that have had 290 applied.

    Perhaps you meant the purple 222 loctite?

    I also have other green loctite (retaining compound for bearing shafts) which would not work well in threads.

    Here are the probably the three most common loctites, http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/

    And here is the entire range, soooo confusing especially since every bottle looks the same
    http://www.loctite.co.za/loctite/ful...ctite-2903.htm


    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
    Good idea thanks.

    I find the that Loctite 290 is less strong than the Blue. Maybe mine is old. It is very flowable/low viscosity so less stick to the threads than the thicker Blue.

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Loctite

    Quote Originally Posted by Khumba View Post
    Good idea thanks.

    I find the that Loctite 290 is less strong than the Blue. Maybe mine is old. It is very flowable/low viscosity so less stick to the threads than the thicker Blue.
    Strange that, I find it too be very strong. It is very thin because it is the wicking type, so you apply it after the bolt has been tightened and it flows into the thread with capillary action. If you apply it before assembling the bolt /nut then I guess it may be act very differently as most of it does not get into the engaging threads.

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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