Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30
  1. #1
    User
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Age
    61
    Posts
    21

    Default CZ P-07 Suppressor Build

    Over the last 2 years I have been on the hunt for a suppressor for my CZ P-07. After endless trolling of the net, I decided to go with one of the few local "manufacturers", and eventually settled on a unit from Mkonto Manufacturing. I found this clip on youtube and thought WOW, that's what I want. And they are local!

    [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSW7RIfQWyM[/youtube]

    Firstly, what arrived what not nearly what is depicted in this video. What I imagined was going to be roughly 30mm in diameter turned out to be a whopping 43mm. One would have to use aircraft wings as sights to be able to see over the top of it. Even the tallest suppressor sights available for the P-07 are still too short to clear the top.

    Then the thread, which was requested as 1/2 X 28 wasn't cut correctly. It only screwed about halfway onto the barrel before binding up completely. I eventually invested in a 1/2 X 28 bottoming tap (@ another R1680.00) and re-cut the thread myself. Once it was eventually fitted I was off to the range. Diasppointment No:2. There was virtually no difference between rounds fired with or without the "silencer". Even using subsonic rounds, ear protection was still required.

    There was also no consistency in the grouping of the shots. At 15m, emptying a 17 round mag, I could group shots withing a 80mm circle without the "silencer". With it fitted, I was lucky to get 2 shots of the 17 on the man target I was using. There is no indexing facility available on the Nielsen Device, so the position of the unit rotationally on the barrel is fixed. It just has a very rudimentary slot with a small grub screw to prevent it rotating.

    Opening the unit, I discovered that there is absolutely no blast chamber for the gasses to dissipate to. The "baffle" is basically just a chunk if aluminium with slots cut into it and a single hole drilled through to the centre in each slot. This "baffle" occupies the entire length of the unit.

    What makes it even more useless is that it weighs in at precisely 500g. Yip, 1/2 a Kg. Not impressed at all.

    After that disappointing purchase, I decided to give up on looking for what I wanted locally (prices for what I want from over the pond are just ridiculous), started some research, did some planning (mostly in my head), did a bit more research on materials, made a few phone calls and went shopping.

    Its been a bit of a lengthy process to get to this point (been at it since November 2018) but I am progressing.

    So the materials I have sourced are EN36 for the Neilsen Device, and for the remainder, 6063 T6 Aluminium tube for the body and internal spacers, and 6068 T6 Aluminium Round bar for the baffles and endcap.

    The Neilsen Device was the most difficult part to construct. So, what is a Neilsen Device and what is it for.

    The technical term for it is a "L.I.D" (Linear Inertia Decoupler) All it really does is decouples the suppressor from the barrel while the firearm action cycles. Since most handguns require the barrel to move while cycling, the added weight on the end of the barrel prevents it from moving sufficiently for the barrel to unlock. That means that the firearm has to be physically cycle after each round is fired.

    There are a number of good slow-mo videos on YouTube that demonstrate the action. Like this one.

    [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXJcf3xL_c[/youtube]

    The main body of the unit required 10 different tasks before it could be removed from the chuck. These were, in order of task:

    1. Cutting the outer diameter
    2. The straight knurl. This is done right at the beginning as it requires tremendous force on the part, and if it were going to move in the chuck, I wanted it to happen before any other critical parts were cut.
    3. Cutting the rear diameter.
    4. Cutting the taper to go from the rear diameter to the knurl.
    5. Cutting the inner bore to size and depth.
    6. Cutting the thread relief in the bore.
    7. Cutting the internal thread.
    8. Cutting the external thread major diameter
    9. Cutting the thread relief for the external thread.
    10. Cutting the forward relief
    11. Cutting the external thread.

    The part could then only be parted off and reversed to face off the other side. This is what the part looks like with the processes numbered.



    The next part of the project was the body core, which slides inside the part above, but must be able to rotate, but must also be fixed, but must also be index-able!!! :o

    This is what I came up with. It also has an internal thread. The outer surface is smooth and polished to ensure smooth action when doing what it is supposed to be doing. This part was actually turned out of a 30mm piece of EN36, without changing the outer diameter. It was then parted off and 8 holes drilled in a circle around the central hole. Once those were drilled, the part then went back into the lathe to have the larger diameter cut to fit snugly inside the bore of the body.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/2mmtvz5.jpg[/img]

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i68.tinypic.com/2eoe548.jpg[/img]

    It was halfway through the turning of this part that I realized I had forgotten a crucial step, in fact what would have been step number 1 in the body construction. The result was that I had to run off with the parts to my friendly engineering shop for them to mill a slot in the body for me. :patch:

    My good mate Johan popped in the milling machine and sorted it for me. Thanks Johan!! :thumleft:

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i67.tinypic.com/x1mudf.jpg[/img]

    The hole would hold a pin, which would then locate into one of the holes drilled around the core. When pushed forward, this pin would lock the core, preventing it from turning. Once pulled back however, the core can turn and the pin would then locate in a different hole in the core.



    Next up was the end cap for the main body of this piece.

    When this photo was taken the part had just been through the blast cabinet in preparation for blackening.
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i68.tinypic.com/szzhhl.jpg[/img]

    With the final result looking like this.
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/2eyyhs1.jpg[/img]

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i66.tinypic.com/1zx4g77.jpg[/img]

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i63.tinypic.com/35mmclz.jpg[/img]

    Then it was off to dig around in my favourite spring manufacturers over-run bins for a suitable spring to fit the core.

    I found the perfect one. A little rusty when I got it but a quick run through the electroplating bath and it looks like new again.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i63.tinypic.com/25qeyjk.jpg[/img]

    The various parts lined up as they would be assembled.
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i64.tinypic.com/muwe4i.jpg[/img]

    Partly assembled
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i63.tinypic.com/28u44y0.jpg[/img]

    And the finished product.
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i67.tinypic.com/2u4knlv.jpg[/img]

    [img width=800 height=450]http://i64.tinypic.com/2vtt6x5.jpg[/img]

    With the barrel screwed into the core, this is how the unit will function.
    [youtube]https://youtu.be/6Tn2-UC5brs[/youtube]

    So on to the aluminium parts. Thread was cut in the end of the aluminium tube to accommodate the body of the L.I.D.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i67.tinypic.com/2uppi88.jpg[/img]

    Then on to the innards. These just consist of a few fat washers curved on the one side and a few thin wall tube spacers.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i67.tinypic.com/97vb5t.jpg[/img]

    That are assembled in this order.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/4r69fc.jpg[/img]

    The front end cap has been completed and blasted to give a satin finish ready for anodising.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i67.tinypic.com/2prfmtf.jpg[/img]

    The view inside the tube once everything is assembled.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i64.tinypic.com/xbjlhs.jpg[/img]

    Another view showing the baffles

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i68.tinypic.com/33ykv3k.jpg[/img]

    And this is how they line up.

    [img width=799 height=450]http://i63.tinypic.com/15f3xn9.jpg[/img]

    And the view down the barrel.

    [img width=800 height=450]http://i68.tinypic.com/2yuhstg.jpg[/img]

    The completed suppressor. Now all that is left is for me to pay a visit to the range. Will attempt to take a video of it in action.

    For comparative purposes.

    The view over the sights with the Mkonto Suppressor fitted. New Suppressor
    [img width=383 height=581]http://i64.tinypic.com/5320s6.jpg[/img] [img width=382 height=603]http://i63.tinypic.com/v8jtjd.jpg[/img]

    Side view showing the Mkonto height difference
    [img width=799 height=449]http://i68.tinypic.com/106hms3.jpg[/img]

    The new Suppressor. Raised suppressor sights not required.
    [img width=799 height=476]http://i66.tinypic.com/1zdx1rd.jpg[/img]

    Complete Mkonto unit
    [img width=799 height=449]http://i63.tinypic.com/107onj6.jpg[/img]

    New suppressor
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/if242t.jpg[/img]

    Weight difference.
    Mkonto Suppressor
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/2dqizwg.jpg[/img]

    New Suppressor
    [img width=799 height=450]http://i65.tinypic.com/2ir2beb.jpg[/img]

  2. #2
    User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    1,792

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build

    For some reason, no photo's are showing and the links aren't links.

    Interesting though. I was wondering how to deal with the non-fixed barrel. Thanks for the info on the L.I.D.

  3. #3
    User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    KZN
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,445

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build

    A very interesting build!
    A P07 suppressor is on my to do list someday. A bit more of a challenge than 22LR units, as you no doubt know.
    Then there is my 223 to be done as well. Too little time.
    Those tap prices: eye=watering.......

  4. #4
    User
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Age
    61
    Posts
    21

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build

    Quote Originally Posted by janfred View Post
    For some reason, no photo's are showing and the links aren't links.

    Interesting though. I was wondering how to deal with the non-fixed barrel. Thanks for the info on the L.I.D.
    Thanks Janfred. Will edit the post as soon as I can figure how to. There does not appear to be any way of editing it. The "Edit Post" is not there.

  5. #5
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,743

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build


  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,743

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build


  7. #7
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,743

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build


  8. #8
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,743

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build


  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,743

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build


  10. #10

    Default Re: CZ P-07 Suppressor Build

    Why not phone the importer of Ase Utra and see if he has a 9mmP one.

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •