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  1. #1

    Default Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    I have a BSA Featherweight Majestic Deluxe in .270, which is about 60 years old, the barrel and action are still in great condition but the stock has been cosmetically neglected.

    I inherited it from my uncle about 7 years ago and if it has been shot more than 100 times, it's a lot.

    I have used it on three hunts, cleaned it and then put it in the safe and only taken out for the required wipe down.

    My boys are getting older and time is a bit more manageable, so I plan on picking up the pace in terms of hunting again.

    The issue with the stock is that it has been banged up and over oiled along the way until it got to me and when I had taken it to the range, after a few shots and if the weather is warm, oil seeped out of the tang area and along the action.

    I really like this rifle and want to use it for its intended purpose, so I thought it was time to give it some well deserved attention.

    I stripped the rifle down and cleaned the varnish off the stock and used benzine and acetone to pull what oil I could.

    The dings on the stock are fairly deep and there is one or two that are nightmare, I have managed to steam a few out but I will make a plan.

    I have upgraded the scope that came with it, Tasco 3-9 x 40 Silver Prong / Antler to a Nikon Fieldmaster 4.5-14 x 40.

    The barrel has a built in recoil reduction system that will blow your fillings out if you don't wear hearing protection and it is not practical to put a silencer onto it.

    On paper the rifle groups well and on the last hunts that I have used it on, all animals dropped and bullet placement was pretty much on point.

    I plan on using the rifle for hunting distances of up to 250m max and in all honesty, I think the rifle is probably more accurate than my abilities.

    Sorry for the long winded explanation but once I am happy with the condition of the stock and the rifle is ready to be re-assembled, would it be recommended to carry out glass bedding on the rifle, as I really want to do this right, first time around.

    If it is recommended, what should I look out for? I did some research and saw processes that looked neat, clean and precise and others that looked like a horror story.

    Neat, Clean and Precise



    Horror Story



    If it is recommended, what should I look out for in terms of a quality job and whom would you suggest that I use within the Eastern Cape / East London area?

    Many thanks for your time.

    20190822_112100.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    If the rifle groups well after you reassemble it, then there is no point in bedding it. My 5c worth.

    If you really want to...Bedding is not that difficult to do yourself, as long as you apply some common sense. I use Epidermix 372 epoxy as a bedding agent, and kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent - go wild with the release agent... its easier to wash it off later than it is to unstuck a stuck rifle. You can get these at most hardware shops or supermarkets. I fill in anything with putty where I don't want the glue to go. I wrap two to three layers of electrical tape around the barrel where it touches the front end of the stock to ensure the barrel is free floating. The secret is to gently lower the action down onto the bedding agent so that it settles in, and leaves a perfect imprint on the stock. Do not put too much pressure on, and don't disturb it or wiggle it around. Knock it out 24 hours later, touch up with a Dremmel, and allow to cure for a few more days, before reassembly and shooting.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    a very fearful rewarding activity, slowly carefully and think - think what yo doing. I would suggest you watch a lot more video's each one has something to take to the bench. Look up stress free bedding.
    I bed everything once I have a good group - I get the group good and then bed it. I bed everything so that it stays where and how it is. I will play with loads and improve on rifle once I have a good bedding. I also use 372 epoxy, but it is not the best, I am thinking of using some kind of filler or finding a more putty like substance - putty will be much easier than epoxy. I am experimenting with success with drilling out the screws area and using epoxy as a pillar. I have always bedded entire area, almost rebuilding from nox to tang, but I like this two spot theory, want to sit and stare at a stock and think about it some more - its certainly much easier, but will it be as rigid as full bedding from nox to tang ?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    Nice thing about 372, it doesn't mind if you put a wood stain in it to match the stock.

    Refrigeration tubing, stainless steel, makes nice pillars that you can bed in with out having to drill anything if you get the correct diameter.

    Yes the first one is nerve wracking, after that it's a walk in the park.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean KZN View Post
    Nice thing about 372, it doesn't mind if you put a wood stain in it to match the stock.
    Yes the first one is nerve wracking, after that it's a walk in the park.
    *****
    Stain - yes, thats what I was being shown today - had 2 hrs to kill so went and sat with gunsmiths learnt a bit about bedding and also some about loktite.
    ?????????????????????????
    Yes the first one is nerve wracking, after that it's a walk in the park.[/QUOTE]
    If you ever had a action get stuck, you will never forget that feeling - and it hovers there peeping over your shoulder at every dis-engaging ceremony, till you hear that click as it comes apart.

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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    And then there are prayers to Saint Teflon... the patron saint of release agents

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    Wax first spray and cook second.

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    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    I used pratley steel putty to bed the 338WM... had one or 2 spots with not enough vaseline to prevent the putty from sticking... after 2 or 3 days managed to tap it loose... but it was nerve wrecking. Nice thing of pratley steel is that it is putty, so no other putty required to 'pool' you resin. I applied the putty where I needed it, and tightened the action in with the original screws, and tape over the barrel, as mentioned above. next few days to remove it... then looked at the putty, and aplied some more were I felt it was required, this time ensuring enough vaseline was applied...

    2 years later, and a few 100 rounds later, no cracks or other disruption to the pratley steel or the action.

    Use at your own risk. If you are not familiar with it, this stuff was MADE to stick to steel, and dries very VERY hard...

  9. #9

    Default

    Thank you to everyone for the suggestions and advice.

    I decided to take it in as I rather it be done right the first time, instead of making a hash up of it.

    Definitely will try it myself once I have a beater or something without sentimental attachment.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Old School Rifle - Glass Bedding

    Thanks to everyone for your advice.

    Received the rifle back,they did the bedding similar to the first video, so I am pretty chuffed.

    Redid the finish on the stock and will mount the scope next week and then hit the range.

    https://ibb.co/XXspYHT
    https://ibb.co/1QVYZmt
    https://ibb.co/6yhdSBs
    https://ibb.co/pLb9gWC
    https://ibb.co/NyP7WDW
    https://ibb.co/pzH58F1
    https://ibb.co/LnbhGc0

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