Results 21 to 29 of 29
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10-10-2019, 20:38 #21
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
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- The moral high-ground
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- 52
- Posts
- 3,001
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
Umgeni River Defensive Pistol Club, 310 Gray Park Rd. nic@ramacom.co.za
If you Google SADPA clubs you will also find contact numbers.
Nic and Manhar are the guys in charge. They are good people. If I ever win the Lotto and move to the coast, this would be my club.
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10-10-2019, 20:55 #22
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Age
- 69
- Posts
- 351
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10-10-2019, 21:03 #23
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- Noord van die biltong gordyn.
- Age
- 56
- Posts
- 9,116
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11-10-2019, 08:04 #24
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Age
- 46
- Posts
- 29,307
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
There’s is very little that talks to me like a over 40 calibre non magnum N frame.
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19-10-2019, 11:59 #25
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Age
- 69
- Posts
- 351
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
Anyone know the best process to treat the revolver that has these rust spots...dont want to re blue..trying to keep it as origal as possible
Thank you
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19-10-2019, 16:23 #26
- Join Date
- Jan 2019
- Location
- JHB and BFN
- Age
- 47
- Posts
- 1,521
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
Hi Baugust
As per your comment above, don't re-blue no matter what anyone says.
Value is lost should it be reworked in any way.
The light rust spots (pitting) are there to stay and now can only add or detract to the character of the FA.
There is no way to totally remove the spots as the blued area is essentially damaged and the underlying steel has rusted.
To clean them up a little without harming the surrounding areas, take a gun cleaning oil you would generally use (I use trisol spray for this type of cleaning) and use a fine soft bristle brass cleaning brush to lightly remove the loose surface rust on the spots.
I have cleaned a few of my own FA this way that came into my hands and needed a little TLC.
Generally I would totally strip the FA and tackle different parts then reassemble when done.
Strip for me is every component in a pile and not just the various assemblies.
If you take this route make sure you are confident with the undertaking and can fully re-assemble with no spare parts left...
Taking photos before and during stripping helps to refresh the mind.
This type of deep clean is not always necessary and depends on what areas you need to clean.
I use a toothbrush size and another slightly larger soft brass brush as sold from most hardware stores.
An old brass cleaning brush as used for a barrel fan work as well.
It is crucial that the bristles are not too hard and thick to prevent any unnecessary hard abrasion on the surrounding blued surfaces.
Don't overwork the spots and surrounding area.
The small toothbrush size is good for small detailing cleaning and the larger for other open surfaces.
Spray or apply the cleaning oil and let it stand for a couple of minutes then start from a point and work through, depending on the extent of the surface damage you will notice that the spots may clean up quickly as it is just light on the surface or a bit deeper that will take longer but will never be totally removed.
Feel each spot with your fingers when working and get a sense of what remains as you can feel the roughness of the rust.
Don't overdo the cleaning as it is possible to damage the surrounding areas.
You can either wipe the metal surface clean and re-oil as you go to monitor progress or another option I use on the steel components when busy with a deep clean is to clean off the oil and other residue from years gone by with Acetone.
Acetone from building merchants or hardware stores softens and breaks down the old oils and residues and leaves no trace when the part has dried and the Acetone has evaporated.
It is very important to note that Acetone is a strong solvent and will damage some plastics, varnish, powder coating etc
Acetone should only be used to clean the metal surfaces of the FA and anything non metal should be kept away or removed to aid the cleaning process.
You can then inspect the clean metal surfaces you are cleaning and then oil with a quality gun oil as normal when done.
Cleaning with Acetone helps view the surface with no oil that covers up or obscures some rust patches slightly that you may have missed.
If you make use of Acetone to clean away oils make sure to correctly oil all surfaces after cleaning to protect the metal surfaces and ensure all moving parts are correctly oiled for lubrication as any old oils or greases would be broken down and mostly dissolved by the Acetone.
Hope the info can help you in some way.
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19-10-2019, 16:35 #27
- Join Date
- Jan 2019
- Location
- JHB and BFN
- Age
- 47
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- 1,521
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
Apologies for the typo:
An old brass cleaning brush as used for cleaning a barrel can work as well.
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19-10-2019, 16:56 #28
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Age
- 69
- Posts
- 351
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
That detailed information that Firestick offered is most kindly appreciated...i certainly like his approach and I sence his advise comes with great experience
Thank you Firestick..i will follow your advise step by step
Sent from my SM-J410F using Tapatalk
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20-10-2019, 08:10 #29
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Posts
- 2,749
Re: What would the value of this Smith & Wesson 1917 45 DA
Be aware that unless you know exactly what you are doing do not take off the side plate. It is very easy to burr the join.
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