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  1. #1
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    Default Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Hi all

    I recently became the proud owner of an older Redding press to start my reloading journey.

    Now the question is should i just clean it, grease and start to use it or should I disassemble it, sand-blast it, respray and then start to use it.

    Whats the suggestions and whats your thoughts?

    If I go down the refurbishment road what are the pitfalls I should look out for?

    Thank you in advance for your help and advice.

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    User 414gates's Avatar
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    The press is in very good condition, a re-paint is a waste of time for this, IMO.

    Disassemble it, brush all the parts with diesel, wipe everything clean, and grease the ram and bottom pin before putting it back.

    You'll probably find that the clearance of the ram is still tight enough that most of the grease you apply has to be wiped off.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    I am with 414 on this matter, just grease any part that moves or pivots. I like to take things like this and put in oven at about 70 C and then grease when hot. I use a old, million year old tin from my Dads life time tin of lithium based grease, dunno why, its just always been there and it just always worked.

    (Speaking of that tin, I have not seen it in ages, "alarm bells ring!" Still a metal tin)

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Anything more than cleaning would be for fun, or cosmetics, or to comfort your soul, or something similar. Basically not necessary.

    A very thorough cleaning should reveal any rust or other flaws one should worry about.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Refurbish because you can and want to, go for it. Will make a nice talking point in your bar. May even be OK for hunting. As for precision reloading, I am of the opinion that an inexpensive Lee press would be better.

    The angle on the linkage between the ram and the handle shows that almost half the force mid stroke is transmitted towards the front. Makes sizing operations more difficult. If it has seen much use, I would be surprised if there is no play due to wear.

    Secondly, if mounted as designed, the case will be held at an angle. Not great for seating bullets to minimum run-out. Excellent for pinching your fingers trying to align the bullet before it enters the die.

    There is a reason why presses like that are no longer made...

  6. #6
    User 414gates's Avatar
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by janfred View Post
    There is a reason why presses like that are no longer made...
    Disagree. On all points.

    Firstly, they are no longer made because they are too expensive to make. The sleeve for the ram is twice as long as any other press, which means more metal to machine, higher precision, greater tolerance. The linkage is integral to the frame - again, more machining, higher tolerance, etc.

    Secondly, they are cast iron. No amount of force on the handle is going to loosen the fit in the ram, especially with that huge bearing surface in the sleeve.

    The ergonomics for precision purposes are not related to the angle of the press. What makes for precision in a single stage is the hard stop for accurate and repeatable seating depth - an immovable hard stop when the ram is all the way up.

    Some presses don't have one, some presses sort of have one that wiggles a bit. This particular one I'm not familiar with, but the design suggests that the maximum ram height is fixed and reached when the handle is all the way down.

    Lastly, run-out is a vague but often used term for accuracy problems [ which most times have nothing to do with run-out in the first place ] , and which the tolerances in the press have nothing to do with, in my opinion. Once that case and bullet are in the seating die, the press has no power over the run-out.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Looks like an older redding 7-1 press.

    I tend to agree with janfred: a new Lee classic is stronger, and substantially beefier than this Redding (but not inexpensive). This C type clamp design has over time been replaced with stronger, O type frames. This press overclocks: the ram partially lowers on full depression of the lever. Its apex - conformity will be determined by the state of the linkages within the press, as it does not have a hard stop.

    I would completely refurbish (in Redding green), but only if the primer holder is included! Not quite a 1928 historical Pacific C type press, but usefull nonetheless.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Hi Chris86

    Your old press has character... KEEP it that way.
    By all means strip it down and buff the rusted spots on handle etc with a wire brush or rotary brush to remove the surface rust.
    Oil it and leave it as such.
    To paint the frame would take away from its character.

    It will always be an old press, your first press.
    They become shiny over time as you sell and replace but old will always be old.
    If it works and the linkages are tight (or tight-ish) and the ram doesn't have too much free play, there is nothing wrong with it looking like that.

    Take alcohol or methalated spirits and wipe down the painted (I doubt powder coated due to the age) and it will have a shine full of character...

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Hi all,

    Thank you for the comments and input.

    Based on the feedback provided i have decided to do the following initially:
    1. Strip completly, clean everything with diesel and or alcohol.
    2. Brush the handle with wire brush to remove rust.
    3. Grease and or oil all moving parts, 0w20 or lithium grease or chainsaw oil/grease.

    I can always in 9months time, after hunting season, remove the press and then sandblast and paint if I feel like it.

    My only concern is how, as a complete novice, will I know if my press is functioning correctly or if there is to much play or another issue?

    I should probably move this to question to reloading section.

    I will share my disassembly cleaning and mounting process as it happens.

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris86 View Post
    Hi all,

    Thank you for the comments and input.

    Based on the feedback provided i have decided to do the following initially:
    1. Strip completly, clean everything with diesel and or alcohol.
    2. Brush the handle with wire brush to remove rust.
    3. Grease and or oil all moving parts, 0w20 or lithium grease or chainsaw oil/grease.

    I can always in 9months time, after hunting season, remove the press and then sandblast and paint if I feel like it.

    My only concern is how, as a complete novice, will I know if my press is functioning correctly or if there is to much play or another issue?

    I should probably move this to question to reloading section.

    I will share my disassembly cleaning and mounting process as it happens.

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    *************************
    Stay away from chainsaw oil, its no where near what you want, its properties are in the glue sector. Chain oil is meant to be sticky and every dust, grit particle that pass's within a foot of the press will become entrapped creating a grinding paste. It is designed to stay put at 10000 RPM centrifugal force.

    Only remove loose rust, and rub thin oil into the layer thats there, effectively "browning it, like blueing, but brown - like on the old pellet guns. A effective protective coat, like old spanners.

    Try not redo it, then its just a old thing, now its a piece of working history.

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