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  1. #11

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Keep oil and grease on a press to a minimum, if you don’t have a proper primer seater. If any stage of your reloading requires you to touch a primer with your fingers, minimize oil on reloading tools.


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  2. #12
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    A little trick for overcoming the hand priming part mentioned above is to use a tweaser.
    Go past Clicks or Dischem (many other pharmacies may have).
    Look for a plastic tweaser as sometimes supplied in first aid kits, the foresip type that's around 100 to 150mm long.

    Touchless (un-touch by fingers) priming.

    If the primer tends to move a little when gripping it then create a small V shaped indent at the required grip point, problem solved.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Those plastic tweezers are very use full, I use them for a few applications.

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by tcbc View Post
    Keep oil and grease on a press to a minimum, if you don’t have a proper primer seater. If any stage of your reloading requires you to touch a primer with your fingers, minimize oil on reloading tools.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Use graphite powder on the ram and other linkages that will keep it there. Avoids the dust gathering and grinding paste effect.

    Using carburettor or engine cleaner in a spray can will blow away and dissolve the grease and all oil present. If hard, just rub till clean. Diesel will do the same, but it is oily and defeats the removal of all lubricants.

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Very cool press you have there.
    Some thin oil to lube the moving parts and you are good to go.

    Brake cleaner will remove old grease in a jiffy. Just coat bare metal parts with a thin layer of oil afterwards. Good idea to wire wheel the handle. You could maybe use cold blue on the bare metal parts to help prevent rust.

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by zguy View Post
    Very cool press you have there.
    Some thin oil to lube the moving parts and you are good to go.

    Brake cleaner will remove old grease in a jiffy. Just coat bare metal parts with a thin layer of oil afterwards. Good idea to wire wheel the handle. You could maybe use cold blue on the bare metal parts to help prevent rust.
    ***********************
    Why do you suggest thin oil over grease (which excess is wiped away after working in)?
    Its a high pressure pivot point application and a large area shearing wiping surface(ram stroke)
    Surely this is the least applicable oil.
    Break cleaner will also remove the remaining paint?
    Cold blue rusts by hand contact?
    I do not understand any of your suggestions reasons, could you justify?, perhaps a lesson in reasons to be found here?

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman View Post
    ***********************
    Why do you suggest thin oil over grease (which excess is wiped away after working in)?
    Its a high pressure pivot point application and a large area shearing wiping surface(ram stroke)
    Surely this is the least applicable oil.
    Break cleaner will also remove the remaining paint?
    Cold blue rusts by hand contact?
    I do not understand any of your suggestions reasons, could you justify?, perhaps a lesson in reasons to be found here?
    I would grease on the pivoting points. Where the ram goes through the press body, I don't know the tolerances there. Maybe a light grease is fine, providing the excess is wiped away. Mine was super tight, I used oil and it's been fine ever since.

    Brake cleaner will not remove paint. Someone else mentioned carb cleaner. That will more likely damage paint and stuff plastic. Brake cleaner is used on painted calipers.

    Also, cold blue is used everyday on guns and tools for light protection. It's not like the op is going to use the press 12 hours a day, 7 days a week.

    You don't know everything, even if you think you do.

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    My 2 cents on lubrication. Lately I have been using moly paste on high friction-high load areas. I use MoDi assembly paste which is uses a bentonite carier for the moly. It works well and doesnt seem to dry out to a sticky mess like lithium grease does. I also use a moly paste I found at a gunshop. It does the same thing. A little bit, like a match head, goes a long way. It stops galling on softer dissimilar metals. I use it on the press pivots and the ram. Ive also added some to pivot points on my RCBS hand priming tool. It is smooth as butter now. Once the paste dries only the moly is left and doesnt seem to attract dust.

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by MariusT View Post
    My 2 cents on lubrication. Lately I have been using moly paste on high friction-high load areas. I use MoDi assembly paste which is uses a bentonite carier for the moly. It works well and doesnt seem to dry out to a sticky mess like lithium grease does. I also use a moly paste I found at a gunshop. It does the same thing. A little bit, like a match head, goes a long way. It stops galling on softer dissimilar metals. I use it on the press pivots and the ram. Ive also added some to pivot points on my RCBS hand priming tool. It is smooth as butter now. Once the paste dries only the moly is left and doesnt seem to attract dust.
    Moly is good stuff. There's a guy on YouTube involved with heavy industry and mining. If I recall, moly is very fine so it actually fills in Microscopic pores in the metal with use. And the friction is very low.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by zguy View Post
    Moly is good stuff. There's a guy on YouTube involved with heavy industry and mining. If I recall, moly is very fine so it actually fills in Microscopic pores in the metal with use. And the friction is very low.
    This is true, the springer airrifle guys use it a lot and it works well. It also stays where you put it where normal grease sometimes does not.

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