Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 47
  1. #21
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Port Elizabeth
    Age
    55
    Posts
    11,588

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by zguy View Post
    I would grease on the pivoting points. Where the ram goes through the press body, I don't know the tolerances there. Maybe a light grease is fine, providing the excess is wiped away. Mine was super tight, I used oil and it's been fine ever since.

    Brake cleaner will not remove paint. Someone else mentioned carb cleaner. That will more likely damage paint and stuff plastic. Brake cleaner is used on painted calipers.

    Also, cold blue is used everyday on guns and tools for light protection. It's not like the op is going to use the press 12 hours a day, 7 days a week.

    You don't know everything, even if you think you do.
    ****************
    Thats why I asked Booytie.

  2. #22
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Port Elizabeth
    Age
    55
    Posts
    11,588

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by MariusT View Post
    My 2 cents on lubrication. Lately I have been using moly paste on high friction-high load areas. I use MoDi assembly paste which is uses a bentonite carier for the moly. It works well and doesnt seem to dry out to a sticky mess like lithium grease does. I also use a moly paste I found at a gunshop. It does the same thing. A little bit, like a match head, goes a long way. It stops galling on softer dissimilar metals. I use it on the press pivots and the ram. Ive also added some to pivot points on my RCBS hand priming tool. It is smooth as butter now. Once the paste dries only the moly is left and doesnt seem to attract dust.
    ***********
    I love moly in many applications - remarkable stuff, only draw back is its sometimes a bit dirty. Black mess?
    I enjoy these post where you can learn new "how to and why"

  3. #23
    User
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,628

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman View Post
    ***********
    I love moly in many applications - remarkable stuff, only draw back is its sometimes a bit dirty. Black mess?
    I enjoy these post where you can learn new "how to and why"
    I took your earlier post the wrong way, apologies

    Moly can trek and make a huge mess, especially on its own. I think part of it is how fine it is.
    Suspended in grease, less likely to trek and mess. But used sparingly, magic.

  4. #24
    User
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Age
    39
    Posts
    204

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman View Post
    ***********
    I love moly in many applications - remarkable stuff, only draw back is its sometimes a bit dirty. Black mess?
    I enjoy these post where you can learn new "how to and why"
    Yes moly is extremely dirty. My wife hates the stained shirts.

  5. #25
    User
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Somerset West
    Age
    37
    Posts
    122

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Even though I started the post I love how it has evolved.

    I have learned so much from this post and the forum as a whole.

    I have a hand primer so will not be priming on the press as it does not have the priming arm anymore.

    Still not exactly sure what oil/grease to use once I have cleaned the press? I am a total novice.

    Should I use engen oil or Modi - 1? or is there something else? What ever I use I need to buy as I only have Q20 and WD40 in the house ito lubrication.

  6. #26
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Port Elizabeth
    Age
    55
    Posts
    11,588

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by zguy View Post
    I took your earlier post the wrong way, apologies

    Moly can trek and make a huge mess, especially on its own. I think part of it is how fine it is.
    Suspended in grease, less likely to trek and mess. But used sparingly, magic.
    ******************
    So I learnt break cleaner does not eat paint, ????? dunno why, but I had it stored as a vicious substance, wear gloves and eye protection. That corrected.
    I STILL want to know why you say a thin oil, I use sewing machine oil for a thin oil, wonderful for what it is, but it breaks through at the minimum force work load. I really want to know why you suggest it - perhaps there is something I can use in your reasoning.
    Please understand, I am a make, it fix it and patch it guy who loves bettering a bought item.
    Try dry moli in a lock, better than oil. Try moli in a dusty area lock - miracle stuff. Tractor ignition, moly - graphite mix.

  7. #27
    User
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    1,784

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    I also prefer to use oil to lubricate the ram. Grease tends to drag. There is not enough sideways load on the ram of modern presses to need special lubricants. Both oil and grease are dust and dirt traps and can turn into grinding paste. It doesn't help that the primer eject is a slot on the side of the ram. Any grease or oil is a magnet for the residue. Which is why I regularly wipe the ram clean and apply oil. Takes a few seconds.

    Lee specify the use of motor oil on the ram of their loadmaster presses and grease in the pivots. I do not know what is recommended by other brands.

  8. #28
    User
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,628

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman View Post
    ******************
    So I learnt break cleaner does not eat paint, ????? dunno why, but I had it stored as a vicious substance, wear gloves and eye protection. That corrected.
    I STILL want to know why you say a thin oil, I use sewing machine oil for a thin oil, wonderful for what it is, but it breaks through at the minimum force work load. I really want to know why you suggest it - perhaps there is something I can use in your reasoning.
    Please understand, I am a make, it fix it and patch it guy who loves bettering a bought item.
    Try dry moli in a lock, better than oil. Try moli in a dusty area lock - miracle stuff. Tractor ignition, moly - graphite mix.
    Brake cleaner is more of a degreaser. Not sure what the magic ingredients are but it's mostly made to remove oil and grease. Carb cleaner is made to desolve gum and varnish, very nasty and potent stuff, but works to remove gummy fuel from a carb, but leaving it too long can chow gaskets and such. Usually why you idle the car for a minute or two once you get it running.

    Sewing oil is also my idea of thin oil. For the ram, if it's very tight / close tolerance, you have a better chance of getting oil all the way through the body of the press than a grease that might not penetrate all the way thru the body of the press where the bushing / machine area for the ram is. To let the lubricant 'creep', not sure if it makes sense. If the tolerance allows, then a grease that won't dry and turn tacky will be better.

  9. #29
    User
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,628

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by janfred View Post
    I also prefer to use oil to lubricate the ram. Grease tends to drag. There is not enough sideways load on the ram of modern presses to need special lubricants. Both oil and grease are dust and dirt traps and can turn into grinding paste. It doesn't help that the primer eject is a slot on the side of the ram. Any grease or oil is a magnet for the residue. Which is why I regularly wipe the ram clean and apply oil. Takes a few seconds.

    Lee specify the use of motor oil on the ram of their loadmaster presses and grease in the pivots. I do not know what is recommended by other brands.
    Yes, the length of the ram tube in the body is basically making a wider bearing surface than say a pivot point. So even though there might be more force on that area than a pivot point, the bearing area is larger so distributes the force better.

  10. #30
    User
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,628

    Default Re: Refurbishment of an old Redding press

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris86 View Post
    Even though I started the post I love how it has evolved.

    I have learned so much from this post and the forum as a whole.

    I have a hand primer so will not be priming on the press as it does not have the priming arm anymore.

    Still not exactly sure what oil/grease to use once I have cleaned the press? I am a total novice.

    Should I use engen oil or Modi - 1? or is there something else? What ever I use I need to buy as I only have Q20 and WD40 in the house ito lubrication.
    Q20 and Wd40 will work fine, but will dry out often as it's an evaporation lubricant. So might require more frequent applications. I see Jan says engine oil is recommended by Lee. Engine oil has good sheer strength. I would first use the Q20 or Wd40 to clean out that area, or brake cleaner if you have it and then use the engine oil.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •