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  1. #1

    Default My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    This is a Pointer semi-auto 12ga and when it works I really love it. Yesterday used some 28gr shells which is more than the 24gr I usually use. It worked well for a while until the first malfunction. After inspection this is what I found...

    The collapsed recoil-spring was likely cause for the crack. I need a new spring and new/fixed front stock.

    Has anyone had this problem before? If so where did you manage the parts?
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  2. #2
    Moderator KK20's Avatar
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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    live out your imagination , not your history.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    I'm not sure how similar that forend is to the Browning Auto 5 on which the design is based but City Guns in Cape Town had a brand new Auto 5 forend in stock a couple of months back. Speak to Martin.

    Personally I would try to fix the forend with some decent glue before replacing it. You would need to wedge the crack open slightly to get glue into it before clamping it tight. I've heard of people getting glue into a crack by sucking with a vacuum cleaner on the opposite side. I'm sure a google search will turn up some advice and YouTube videos that teach you how to do it yourself. If you're still not up to it, a gunsmith that does stock work will be able to assist.

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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    Easy fix, even if you force the crack to continue to it becomes two parts and then glue them.
    A good quality wood glue well applied and clamped is normally stronger than the wood itself.

    Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    Use a compressor to blow glue in after you wedged it.

    If you are still worried drill two or three holes diagonally through just thinner than brass braising rods cover the rods with epoxy and push through and pin in the holes and sand and buff.

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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaptein L View Post
    Use a compressor to blow glue in after you wedged it.

    If you are still worried drill two or three holes diagonally through just thinner than brass braising rods cover the rods with epoxy and push through and pin in the holes and sand and buff.
    ^^ This.

    I did a repair on the spare stock of a Brno Model 2. It was cracked along the grain diagonally along the left side of the barrel channel. I scraped the surfaces inside and out with a razor to get to bare wood and then cleaned around and through the crack a number of times to get any residual oil out. In hindsight I think this may have been the most important step. Epoxied it with clear tinted to roughly match the pore colour, leaving a 'well' piled up on the inside and then gently opened the crack and used an air duster at low low pressure to push it through till I could see a clear line on the outside. Bound gently with wraps of bike inner tube and cured. When set I scraped everything flush with the razor. When done it seemed as strong as hell but I couldn't leave well enough alone so I drilled some 3.5mm holes from inside the channel that went through the crack towards the bottom of the stock. Then epoxied in some short lengths of M3 all thread. After sanding and and oil finishing the stock it was very nearly impossible to see the repair

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    Default Re: My Humpback is dying. Semi-auto 12Ga

    Quote Originally Posted by oafpatroll View Post
    ^^ This.

    I did a repair on the spare stock of a Brno Model 2. It was cracked along the grain diagonally along the left side of the barrel channel. I scraped the surfaces inside and out with a razor to get to bare wood and then cleaned around and through the crack a number of times to get any residual oil out. In hindsight I think this may have been the most important step. Epoxied it with clear tinted to roughly match the pore colour, leaving a 'well' piled up on the inside and then gently opened the crack and used an air duster at low low pressure to push it through till I could see a clear line on the outside. Bound gently with wraps of bike inner tube and cured. When set I scraped everything flush with the razor. When done it seemed as strong as hell but I couldn't leave well enough alone so I drilled some 3.5mm holes from inside the channel that went through the crack towards the bottom of the stock. Then epoxied in some short lengths of M3 all thread. After sanding and and oil finishing the stock it was very nearly impossible to see the repair

    Yes the cleaning will be important might use acetone to get any oil out.

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