Rail and scope mount on Howa. DIY or gunsmith

**Bonedoc** · 26-01-2022, 11:32

Originally Posted by Ds J

This is interesting. Does anyone know more about this?

The lubrication in the screws eliminates the "binding" force between threads. You will get the screws in deeper with the same amount of torque force applied than with dry metal surfaces, and thus better compression. The loctite will do similar in its fluid form, and then stop movement when it dries

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**Skaaphaas** · 26-01-2022, 11:52

Anybody have insights into the need to bed the rail? The three rails I’ve dealt with all appeared to need some bedding in order to not deflect once tightened down.

**Fire-stick** · 26-01-2022, 11:59

Hi Manny.

You should be more than capable and able to mount the rail and scope.
If you know which is the front end of the torque wrench and bits then you are good to go.

As per messages above, take it slow and think yourself through the process.
Do an initial dry-fit or 2 of the rail and scope and don't lockdown screws completely so that they are easy to remove again.

When you are confident on the fitting then add the loctite blue in the process.
Initial cleaning of the residue oils will make the loctite work effectively.

Ensure that you have the best quality bits that you can get to tighten the screws.
An inferior quality will round edges and strip very easily.

In no specific order: Shroeder (green packs) at many builders merchants, Wera and Hilti are of the better quality and well tempered for decent use.
Stay clear of the Torkcraft, Blacksmith etc as quality is weak.

**414gates** · 26-01-2022, 12:27

Originally Posted by MANNY82

Hi guys,

Question is, since it's a rail and not a custom scope mount, do you think this is a DIY job? Not sure what can go wrong. Or should I rather have a gunsmith put everything together?

Any tips will also be valued.

If this is something you will do on other rifles, then it's worth trying it yourself. Youtube has days worth of content you can refer to.

If it's a once off, rather give it to a recommended gunsmith. I say recommended because not every gunsmith can fit a rail. Not even when all they have to do it fit four screws to the correct torque. Even less when the rail needs to be bedded.

The correct fitment involves a check first to see if the rail needs bedding. If not, then it must be correctly torqued to the action. If it needs bedding, self explanatory. Rail bedding takes up the gaps in dimensional differences between the rail and the action when one end of the rail is flush with the action, usually the front. Most rifles need rail bedding, all of mine did.

If you send it to a gunsmith, let it be to one that did the same job for someone else, and did it very well. The few I tried never did a proper job on this.

Originally Posted by aimpoint

I find it interesting that you guys suggest to remove any grease or oil on the screws. I was always under the impression that torque specs are given as wet specs, in other words with the screws being lubricated.

All my Spuhr mounts came with instructions not to remove any factory grease before torquing and if the screws are dry of add some grease

Just follow the instructions for the item. Manufacturers have different instructions. Some say the screws must be dry, some say don't use any loctite. I dry the screws and receiver hole threads after cleaning with acetone, then use blue loctite, for one piece picattiny rails.

**MANNY82** · 26-01-2022, 12:42

I turn my back for an hour and there is a wealth of info and tips. Thanks guys! I'm going to try it myself. Take it slow and make use of the info here and the various YouTube vids I have book marked. Locktite for the rail, and that seems straight forward enough. And then the scope and rings as Per the manufacturers instructions. I see Hawke has torque settings for the rings on their website, but also says if you use the Allen key you receive with it, that you can finger tighten it with the long end, and give a quarter turn with the short end. Will be using the torque settings though.

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**Edwill** · 26-01-2022, 13:29

Rail is easy enough.

Follow Warne rings instructions carefully.
It's a pretty simple DIY job

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**MANNY82** · 26-01-2022, 17:57

Thanks guys. Appreciate all the feedback. Will give it a go, and let you know how it goes.

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**MANNY82** · 05-02-2022, 14:21

OK, so far so good. No idea there would be a small gap between the scope ring halves. But according to Googles it is so. This is not all fixed or tightened fully. Just figuring out where the scope should go

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**Ds J** · 05-02-2022, 15:48

Your scope is short, and probably has a longer eye relief. Therefore, it does not matter very much how far forward or back the scope is mounted.

Put it up that your eye does not need to focus much. Looking through the scope should be fast and easy.

**MANNY82** · 06-02-2022, 09:39

Originally Posted by Ds J

Your scope is short, and probably has a longer eye relief. Therefore, it does not matter very much how far forward or back the scope is mounted.

Put it up that your eye does not need to focus much. Looking through the scope should be fast and easy.

Thanks DS J. Think I have him up with enough eye. relief now. Very similar to the position in the Pic. Now to test

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