Borelapping or Borepolishing...

**WagterEC** · 19-10-2010, 15:06

Hi

I am planning to use the wheeler borelapping kit on a .223. Has anyone done this on their rifle and what was the outcome?

It is a brno 223 and the gusmiths just want to replace the barrel. I cannot get a grouping with it at all. Tried various ammo, changed the scope, checked all screws and the stock and none of them can be blamed for the cause.

I fail to beleive that a barrel with not more than 300 rounds through it is shot out!!

**madako** · 19-10-2010, 15:41

Have you checked the crown? A good gunsmith will be able to recut if there is a problem there. If you do have a "rough" barrel and some serious fouling, a very good cleaning with the appropiate stuff will work. I used J&B borepaste very sucessfully on a 6mm Musgrave that had a "rough" barrel.

It could also be a bedding problem or if the barrel is free floating, maybe some spot is touching. It should realy be free up to just infront of the chamber. Thats where I will start if I were you.

I will never use that lapping bullets in any of my rifles - I just think its too radical.

I am sure some more knowledgeble guys will also chip in with some solutions.

Just my 2c

Cheers

Madako

**WagterEC** · 20-10-2010, 08:03

I checked all the basics..screws, bedding, scope, etc etc...

There is a little nick on the crown that I noticed and I wil have a closer look at it as soon as I start lapping. I only had good reports on the bore lapping from websites in the states. Strange enough that 88% of the reviews are on .222, .223, 22-50,.243.

**madako** · 20-10-2010, 09:29

The idea of sending a bullet coated with grit down my bore just gives me the willies.

IMHO you should think twice before starting to lap barrels with "lapping bullets". Yes it will smooth out some factory barrels too some extend as the roughness gathers copper that will have an effect on accuracy.

The negative is that the majority of the lapping grit acts on the beginning of the rifling closest to the breech and accelerates the wear in that area. Much of the lapping compound is gone as the bullet exits so the area closest to the muzzle gets very little action, but then that is where the majority of your accuracy exists.

Run a patch with J-B Bore Paste as they recommend its use, about 500 trips through a new (300 shots is as good as new) barrel reversing the patch every 10 trips and replacing with new every 20. It's been quite effective for me in all cases. Then, when initially firing a barrel I scope it with a bore scope to see what fouling there is. If there is any copper I remove it and fire a second shot and do the same until I can fire a round that leaves little trace of copper.

Fire lapping should only be tried as an ultimate last resort to correct accuracy before replacing a barrel - after all else have failed. Thats my opinion.

I have also seen some very negative reports on fire lapping.

Good luck!

**WagterEC** · 21-10-2010, 14:01

The borelapping is the last option before I will replace the barrel. I mostly heard and read good about borelapping.

One also has to look at the fact that the not so succesfull stories may come from "Uncle Billy" down the street that used his Die Grinder and a smooth grinding stone and pushed it down his barrel to clear out inperfections.(I know of people that had the idea of doing it)

Will be doing it in the next few days and post again if it was a success or not!

**madako** · 21-10-2010, 15:36

Some comments on Wheeler and Tubbs products by much more knowledgable people than me

http://6mmbr.websitetoolbox.com/prin...56&perpage=100

http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/pow...questions.html

**Gerard** · 22-10-2010, 17:36

Read the comment on this page given by Gale McMillan and stay away from grinding paste and lapping compounds:
http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.asp