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  1. #1

    Default re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Hi,

    Do any of you guys know who can re-blue or re-finish and aluminium frame? i am looking either to re-blue or have a coat like the S&W 442 revolvers have, not unlike the CZ black finish that seems to be baked on, any suggestions, i believe that it is not the same a re-blueing steel, it is a different process or it is harder, anyhow, any one in the know, please give me a heads up, and i also would like to know to reblue steel as well, who is the best, and who is good with Aluminium, i was a 100% job, so must be someone who knows their stuff...

  2. #2
    Member parthyc's Avatar
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    Default Re: re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Not sure of your location but Roys guns in Overport has a guy named Rob who is one of the best.
    Not sure if he's still with them but had mine nitroalloyed about 15 years ago and still in perfect nick.
    I Shoot regularly with it.
    sleep when you're dead

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    Default Re: re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Aluminium frames are usually anodised. It is an aluminium oxide coating and it is very hard. Aluminium oxide is the compound used in various grades of roughness on emery tape. It is also not electrically conductive (that is how you test for its presence). If you want it re-anodised, the old anodising must be stripped by the anodiser who will redo the anodising. Then it must be polished and prepared and taken back for anodising. There must be no steel parts/inserts on the ally when it is stripped or anodised. Few paint / powder coating / other processes will adhere to anodised surfaces. If something like guncote is desired, anodising must be stripped for it to be durable.

  4. #4

    Default Re: re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerard
    Aluminium frames are usually anodised. It is an aluminium oxide coating and it is very hard. Aluminium oxide is the compound used in various grades of roughness on emery tape. It is also not electrically conductive (that is how you test for its presence). If you want it re-anodised, the old anodising must be stripped by the anodiser who will redo the anodising. Then it must be polished and prepared and taken back for anodising. There must be no steel parts/inserts on the ally when it is stripped or anodised. Few paint / powder coating / other processes will adhere to anodised surfaces. If something like guncote is desired, anodising must be stripped for it to be durable.
    mm wow, okay you do seem to know your story, i have a two Smith & Wesson J-Frame revolvers that i want to redo, the frame is alloy, im not sure what process it is, but it does not seem to be like the Beretta frame which i assume has been anodized, is there any other process used on alloy that ares a resemblance to blueing, and what is involved there, and can someone please tell me why alloy can not be blued like steel can, im dumb when it comes to this kinda stuff, but i do know that there are chaps that can do it apparently, so then what is the diffs between blueing steel and bluing alloy? and who can "blue" alloy, i dont think what i would want would be an anodized frame.

  5. #5

    Default Re: re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Main difference between steel and aluminium is steel is a ferrous metal and aluminium is a nonferrous metal ;D and have to be treated very differently when applying a finish.

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    Default Re: re-blueing or coating an aliminium frame

    Alluminium gun parts, as with any ally component can only be painted or anodised. Anodising can be done in any colour you want and black is common, followed by natural as in the frame on the B92 below. If you put any non ferrous metal (copper bronze alluminium lead etc) into a steel bluing solution, it will be disolved. As in: - it disappears like a disprin dropped into a glass of water. Ask me how I know - it was expensive.

    The barrel/compensator is done in satin electroless nickle. The slide is also satin but with mirror finish on the flat sides. The hook on the trigger guard and laser mount are anodised natural (no dye) while the frame is done with the same process. The difference in colour comes from the higher silicone content of the cast frame as opposed to the more pure grade of the extruded T6 alloy used for the manufacture of the mount and hook. That is probably why black is often used on gun parts, it hides colour differences caused by various alloy compositions. The rear sight, hammer and rear surface of the front sight are blued.


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