Complete pistol cleaning

[Dylanm]

With my CZ 75 this happens once a month. I field strip (remove firing pin and spring too) , remove the handle scales and dump the whole lot into petrol for about 10 minutes. Take a toothbrush to it and scrub everything clean.
Then I partially dry with a nice dry cloth and blow out all the excess using a compressor. Lightly oil with Tristol on a pipe cleaner and then dust with graphite powder. Re-assemble and function check... load up and holster.
Then unload the shotgun and pack it away in the safe.

PS: I would not do that with my P07 frame. I use other stuff to clean that. The slide and upper get the same treatment as the 75B.

[yaas]

Field strip my pistol once a month... "Tool in a can" works perfectly for removal of all "grime" if any... And also gets into those hard to get places, upside from that is if it not dried properly it acts as a lubricant as well... Also an old toothbrush to brush clean the hard to reach places + ear buds... Then pieces of clean cloth to wipe dry and then oil all the functional parts and assemble... DCOA - disassemble, clean, oil and assemble. I clean the mags as well.

[Toxxyc]

Great. Wrote a big post about how I cleaned last night. Anyway, it comes down to this:

Put the pistol (field stripped, grips removed) in the ultrasonic cleaner with a generous helping of Sunlight liquid and very hot water.
Left it there for 40 minutes (5 x 8 minute cycles).
Attacked it with the hair dryer for about 20 minutes.
While it was still hot, I practically doused it in Eezox. I noticed on the tin they say first application should be plentiful. Did it part-for-part, soaking both my hands and all metal on the pistol with the almond-smelling stuff. Smells good, by the way.
Let it dry, which it did quickly I believe due to the heat.
About 15 minutes and I started assembling the pistol, using EWL to place one drop on the trigger mechanics, one on the hammer/safety mechanics, one I dropped on the safety spring from the inside, rubbing it down the magazine slide thingy, one drop on the frame where the slide rides on, two on each side in the rails, two in the slide below the barrel catches, two on the recoil spring, two on the hammer spring and finally two drops in the firing pin assembly.
I worked it in everywhere with my fingers, and let it sit for a few minutes. Assembled the whole gun, wiping off any excess oils with a microfiber cloth. Worked the slide manually about 50 times to let the lube run where it needs to, and rubbed off the excess again.

Worthy mention: During this time I could notice, to a remarkable extent, how incredibly smooth and slippery the slide now runs. It easier to now rack the slide and pull the trigger through it's two stages (and it was pretty smooth before to start off with) and the whole damn gun just works better. I cannot recommend Eezox and EWL enough.

After mine I also cleaned my GF's father's Vektor SP2, and found that you shouldn't place it in the ultrasonic cleaner as the spring that engages the trigger to the hammer action falls out. Easy to stick it back in though.

Worthy mention - after cleaning both mine and his pistols looked like new. The blueing is not longer so dull, it shines and it completely dry to touch. Doesn't leave finger marks and it seems to have physically stuck to the metal. EWL still runs a little but that's fine (doesn't run out to leave the pistol dry like CR Speed's Speed Metal Lube), when it's finished I'll replace it with an EWL/EWG combo.

Thanks to Hailstorm for the products, they're awesome and I think I now found one of my most favourite stores in PTA. And Khumba, you can give Jaques a kudo's for his friendliness and willingness to help, even when I could see he was SWAMPED with work when I was there.

[Toxxyc]

Okay, to revive an old thread without posting a new one. In the process of proper cleaning I tried to remove the extractor claw on my CZ 85. It's a transitional model, so it has the B-type frame and slide but it does not have the firing pin block (not important to this discussion then).

Now, what I did so far:

1. Field strip to get the slide on its own.
2. Remove the firing pin.
3. Try to remove the extractor claw pin, and here I get stuck.

That pin STICKS. I've seen videos on YouTube on how to do it, but it just won't budge. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I'm following this protocol, the extractor comes into play at 1:25:



But the pin simply won't budge. Stuck as can be. I even manufactured my own little punch like the one in the video, but to no avail. That being said, the pin isn't as deeply seated as the one in the video, mine sits flush with the slide where the hole is in the video.

Can anyone recommend a fix or a way to remove the pin without taking it to a gunsmith? I don't want to pay hundreds of bucks for work to just replace a R25 spring if I can do it myself!

PS: There is no rust involved. Extractor claw runs perfectly, and the pin was soaked in penetrating oil just to try and loosen it. Nothing...

[mic]

Get a decent pin punch, a small hammer and a lot of patience. The extractor pin on my CZ75 is easy to remove, as I usually do it by gently pushing it out with my firing pin using hand pressure only.

Also I never use petrol to clean my gun. I use either diesel of paraffin. I find that paraffin in the sonic cleaner works well. I have a special metal pan which I use to clean gun parts in the sonic cleaner.

[Toxxyc]

That's the problem, mine is stuck as can come. I manufactured my "pin punch" from a tiny screwdriver I bought new for this purpose, with the tip blunted. It's the same as the oke in the video uses. I considered and tried the firing pin in the beginning, but after it wouldn't budge by hand I didn't want to force the firing pin and risk damage to it, thus the little screwdriver.

The question is how hard can I knock the punch before I risk damage to the pin/extractor claw/slide/spring/whatever? The punch can break I don't care, it's cheap, but I don't want to hurt my gun... I haven't taken a hammer to the story yet and I don't really want to, unless needed?