Homemade knives???

**BoerBok** · 10-12-2008, 09:49

So, I am looking at some boredom over the holidays and was thinking I'd like to try and make my own fixed blade.

Was thinking in direction of using a file and then playing around with a milling machine, grinders and an oilstone. Am hoping to produce a spear/tanto-like blade.

Any guidance?

Harm, any ideas from your side?

**Geoff Carter** · 10-12-2008, 10:41

Boerbok,

There is nothing more rewarding than making your own knife but trust me unless you have a lot of patience don't go the handfile route! Machines were made to make our lives easier! If you've got access to a belt grinder and milling machine and know your way around them then go for it.

**SSP** · 10-12-2008, 10:52

I understood that he was going to make a shiv out of the file not with it!

**BoerBok** · 10-12-2008, 11:29

OK, all y'all got me confused now. ??? ??? (I'm a goat, it's easy, now go away!)

Let me clarify: I was thinking of using an old handfile as the basis & shaping with mill to the required shape. From there, the belt grinders would be next and then finally an air grinder, then polish and lastly sharpen with oil stone or similar.

Does this make sense? Any ideas? Should I use some other steel, e.g. thicker, ind. grade stainless or summing?

**Geoff Carter** · 10-12-2008, 12:32

Sorry my mistake :P Files make excellent knives and are pretty easy to heat treat being carbon steel but they do tend to rust.

Go for it Bokkie once the bug bites it's hard to stop happy0065

**harm** · 10-12-2008, 13:06

BB if u plan on using a file it has to be annealed 1st.i would recommend getting a blank from Johan Oosthusen [ http://www.kmts.co.za/Main.asp?D={5919EBB8-A7D4-4702-8286-242BE41F0908}&PageType=ProductList&DisplayMode=Cat egory&CategoryID=75 ] , very reasonably priced.the blanks have to be bevelled [filed or ground] and heat-treated [Johan offers this service iirc].u could also try Darrel Ralph's Knife Kits [ http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php ].a bit more costly but the kits are pre-ground and heat-treated and ready for handles,both folders and fixed.i think Johan is in Pretoria so if u're nearby u could stop by.
the file idea is good,but dont try milling it without annealing.if u do please make a vid hpy71.to anneal it has to be heated to hardening temp [i use non-magnetic for most of the unknown carbon steels i sometimes use] and left to slow cool over 24 hours or so.i dont have much experience doing this with carbon steels [done it with stainless] so u could speak to Stuart Smith [he's a grat bladesmith and great guy,tell him harm sent u - http://www.forgedknives.co.za/] for more advice.hope this helps

**BoerBok** · 10-12-2008, 13:23

fukkit.

that sounds like a lot of work. I just want something simple, all the terminaninelogy ares confusing me!!!

There's got to be a simpler way of doing this; I don't want a show quality knife, I want something I can carry, use & lose if needs be.

Harm, can you explain it to me a bit simpler, e.g. "take file & blowtorch, heat file till red-hot, drink brandy & cola, leave overnight, then mill" - something like that?

Is it that simple or am I exquisitely ill-informed? ???

**Corné** · 10-12-2008, 14:19

Boerbok,

All I can add is that it just seems to me like one hell of a job that could be very rewarding at the end with a lot of blood, sweat and tears inbetween for the beginner. Good luck with this proposed project...... lv29

**harm** · 10-12-2008, 17:34

ok, blowtorch the file until red hot,until non-magnetic [ i have a small cylindrical magnet that came pre-tapped with 6 mm thread,so i screwed a 6mm bolt onto this].
once the steel is non-magnetic leave to cool in a pile of sand.u could fill an old cooler box with sand,place your heated file in there,cover with more sand and close it up.leave it for a day or so.this is the annealing stage.check the file after 24/26 hours,u should be able to drill or machine it.
mark your profile using a template taken off your sketch.i'm not sure what machinery u have so i'll suggest making a cardboard templated and spraying the profile onto the file using spray paint or layout dye/engineers blue.
cut/mill away everything that does'nt look like your pattern.if u have a steel bandsaw,easy peasy if not drill holes near the profile all around it,cut through the holes using a hacksaw.
profile the blank,using files or grinder.
drill out pin holes or holes for tapping or other mechanical fasteners.
if u want to file thumb-grooves or do decorative filework,now's the time to do that.
form the bevels.if u don't have a belt sander u will have to file the bevels.u could use a small angle grinder as well.
remove all tool marks using abrasive paper and backing,up to 220 grit.
to heat treat i would heat the blade with a blowtorch,evenly, until non-magnetic then quench in oil [get used engine,gearbox or transmission oil.if u get all mix them,makes no difference, in a can of some sort that will be deep enough for the entire blade].
once the blade reaches ambient temperature temper in your wife's oven [make sure she's at her mother's] at 170/180 deg c for 1 hour,twice for toughness,if that's what u want.
test the hardness using a triangular file on the cutting edge.the file should skate off,or have difficulty biting.
the blade is now ready for finishing,after it cools of course.
use abrasive paper with a backing and clean up all the scale that forms during hardening [good luck with this,btw].
mark and cut out your handle scales.
clamp the scales to the tang,ensuring the pin/fastener holes are'nt blocked.drill through these holes,through the handle material,1 side at a time,and don't mix the scales up,eg right side and left side scale.
finish the front/face [the bit that's perpendicular to the flat of the handle that faces the point] of the handle scales before attaching.
if u're using epoxy,roughen the tang with some 60 grit paper.
attach the scales and profile to the tang.shape the scales to desired profile.
sharpen
send to Geoff for sheath.
Bob's your uncle.
this is how i would do a blade from a file using minimal equipment,viz,a hacksaw, hand drill,plenty abrasive paper,files,and much more elbow grease.
since i do not know what carbon steel the file is made from i suggest the non-magnetic hardening method.if u do this make sure u heat the blade evenly.heat treat and bevels are the most crucial parts of making your blade.both affect performance,if the bevels form a thick cutting edge your knife will cut kak,and if the heat treat is swak,the knife won't retain sharpness.u could do a chisel grind [1 side bevel] American style tanto to begin with,make your blade a bit wider than the handle so it forms an integral hand-guard, and design a straight blade and handle,no curves,so less work.cord wrap the tang.
suck it up and tackle this md217
i strongly recommend the following books,even if u just want to dabble with knives -
the $50 knife shop by Wayne Goddard
how to make knives by Richard W Barney and Bob Loveless [u better know who loveless is]
the wonder of knifemaking by Wayne Goddard
knife talk [1 and 2] by Ed Fowler

**ikor** · 10-12-2008, 18:02

Harm, of course, is the man, but I did find a couple of sites you may be interested in. The first is a pictoral tutorial on how to make a knife from a file (pretty much exactly as stated by Harm) and the second is the site at bladeforums...lots of very knowledgable guys there...not that Harm is not...just that sometimes more help or reading is good.

http://imageevent.com/paleoaleo/forgingaknifeblade

http://www.bladeforums.com/

You will need to register at bladeforums but it is free.