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  1. #1
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    Default Steel for knifes

    Hi. A question. Will diamond grinder blades harden if used for knife making

    Any other common flat steel work for knife steel

    Thanks

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    If you are serious, it depends on the type of knife making process you want to follow. Some types of steel are better for forging, and some are better for stock removal. And, the chemical makeup of the steel predicts its hardening procedure and hardened qualities. If you want cheap steel, visit a few pawn shops and buy their OLD files. Or, if you can, get to a leaf spring manufacturing plant (you are in Vanderbijl!) and buy their virgin leaf spring off cuts. This would supply you with good steel to practice your skills on. Try to determine which type of steel the grinder blades is made of. To the best of my knowledge they are not made of carbon steel any more, which could give you some troubles.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    Yes im in vdbp and will look up on leaf spring steel.

    I do not have a belt sander thus stock removal is out. So is forging as i can not get hold of an anvil.

    Byuing blank is one way, however flat steel such as blades work so much easier. As long as i know it is capable of hardening adequite enough for say kitchen knife or utility knifes....



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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    Leaf spring is carbon steel. Works very well but is not stainless.

    If you plan on using a grinder, please work VERY slow because it heats up the steel too much. Also, the finish with a grinder is not smooth.

    Get hold of a piece of railway track and machine an even surface onto the top part of the track. Good enough o start with.

    Question: have you made knives before?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    Hi. Yes ive made one finished. A second skinner in the making.

    My adhd an ocd playing up. Had to have absolute symetrical plunge lines as well as bevel on edge.

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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    The best would probably be to contact folks at KMTS or someone similar and get their advice.

    With steel it is like most things in life: you get what you pay for it. 440C was very popular at one stage but it does not hold an edge. D2 is hard to work but keeps an edge.

    I worked with N690 and similar steels. Hard to sharpen properly, yet keeps an edge very well and can take punishment.

    There are other, and better steels on the market.

    They to contact Etienne Vorster. He helped me.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    Thanks again. This blade came from kmts. Its 12c27 sandvik

    I completely understand. Bohler n690 seems the go to for many knife makers as in south africa we are fairly limited. (CANT ALL HAVE EFFECTIVE STEEL HARDENING PROCESSES DUE TO PROCUREMENT EXAMPLE, LIQUID NITROGEN CYCLES ETC)

    Oom Potgieter in vereeniging assisted with the hardening. Brought up to 1080degrees then rapid cooled between two plates in a vice. It hardened this blade perfectely (had it in the deepfreeze for a day or three then tempered in oven at 250 degrees, twice with a normal cooling between.

    I think the biggest issue with steel currently is to get your hands on it, the most cost effective way. Unfortunately, you cannot walk into a stuarts and loyds and pick up your bar of n690. There is a limited avenue to source, build up contact and collect steel at the best price.

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  8. #8
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    The reason why i asked the question regarding diamond blades was that i have them now. 3 old blades.

    It will be great practice both to design, make, coal harden and finish off, but i do not want to waste my time if it will not harden.

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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Steel for knifes

    Easiest would probably be to test them yourself.

    Cut out a strip of steel with an angle grinder, heat it up to the point where it stops attracting magnets, then quench it in oil of some sort (I’ve found that sunflower oil works well and smells like slapchips as a bonus).

    Then put the end in a vice and try to bend it. If it snaps cleanly before bending, then it hardened properly. If it bends then it didn’t and you can retry the above with water instead of oil.

    Unfortunately google seems to come up with mixed results so it may depend on the brand. Just stay away from the bits with the diamond dust imbedded in them, since it’ll eat whatever tools you try to use on it.

    Great looking knife though!

    Edit: You could also do a ‘spark test’. Touch the steel to a grinder and look at the shape of the spark. Long, straight sparks mean low carbon while sparks that burst into little stars indicate higher carbon (what you want for knives).

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